Buy JFJ Disk Repair SystemJFJ Disk Repair System Product Description:
- Comercial CD/DVD disc repair system designed for use in video stores, libraries, game stores and media centers.
- The JFJ disk repair system is easy to use and repairs and cleans discs for pennies per disc.
- Remove everything from finger prints to deep scratches.
- Fast and easy, learn to use in minutes.
- Includes supplies to clean/repair up to 500 discs.
Product Description
Our machine will clean and resurface anything from a fingerprint to a deep gouge on any kind of disc: Music CD's, CD-ROMs, Sony PlayStation, PSone and PlayStation 2 game discs, Microsoft X-box game discs, Nintendo GameCube game discs, DVD Movies, double-sided DVD, VCD, CDR, DVDR, XBX360, HD DVD, PSX3 and future Compact Disc based products. Our product stands alone when it comes to disc repair! You be the judge by comparing other disc repair machines to ours. You will be 100% satisfied with our machine. This is a comercial quality product.
Customer Reviews
Most helpful customer reviews
30 of 31 people found the following review helpful.
By Steve Kuehl
I have used this machine daily for five years. I could write the book on this machine and all associated issues, good and bad. I wrote a review initially for here but it ended up being two pages long. Drop me an email at the store if you want to know anything about these devices (I do not sell them so my input is impartial). Has made our store a stand-out for disc quality over the others. [...]Have received a large volume of email about this so I added this last part from a response I sent...Overall it is a worthwhile purchase for protection/preservation of inventory. I use the older style machines which are available through other resellers now (as the company has switched to a new design - which I do not want to use). There have been several timer malfunctions but the motor still runs well and I control the power with a plug strip instead of the timer. It gets used 8-10 hours a day on hundreds of discs - so mathematically it has serviced hundreds of thousands of discs and it is still operating with no maintenance - cannot complain there. The new design however takes away all control of operating/repairing the discs. We do not use the top shield door and we maintain our own various pressures and fluid application processes - the new systems do away with all of that control. The new blades and handles have taken some time to adjust to - as we burned through our old ones eventually. The single arm machine did not clean like I wanted so I sold it - we use the double arm only as it gets closer to the center of the discAdded Oct 2008 - some more Q&A I have gotten via email...Q: That's why I wanted to ask about the JFJ machine because it looks like it has a single larger buffering pad that I'm guessing has to be changed much less often. So do you mind telling me about how many disks one person can repair per hour with the JFJ machine?A: A motivated employee can polish 100 discs an hour. I can do 150 without interruptions, but there are always customers so that is rare. Repairs with coarse materials and polishing to a finished look can be upwards of 30-60 an hour (depending on how you use the machine and work through the steps).Q: How much do you figure you pay per disk?A: Pennies - due to the volume we do.Q: Do you have to keep changing the buffering pads on the machine like with the simo/zdag one?A: Only between steps - but typically a coarse pad lasts 2 weeks and the polishing pads for 2-3 weeks.Q:Do you use creams with the JFJ machine or only liquids?A: Creams/polishing compounds. Water based, and depending on the shipment can be very thin (polishing green fluid only).Q: Do the disks show any signs of having been repaired (circular scratches etc...) or do you find that you can repair most light - medium scratched disks until they appear to be in like new/mint condition?A: Typically the only times you might see grooves/scratches is when using the sandpaper - and typically only when used too long on the paper. The coarse pad just needs to be used with plenty of cream to avoid the scratches; placing the coarsed disc with white fluid onto the yellow polishing pads also adds a bit of extra help with the green fluid in removing any work scratches (learned over the years)Q: Could you maybe provide some sort of link or search terms for the older versions you said are better because they allow more control of the repairing process? Have you since found any other machine that you prefer or is the JFJ still the best?A: After having seen that other machine in use at another store and feedback of volume vs. mess vs. cost - the older JFJ is still the best. Hard to find - but the JFJ people have said they might build an older one if asked - but no guarantees there.EDIT, added Dec 2008 from another correspondence:Several tips - I never sandpaper more than 5-8 seconds as I have learned the Wii discs and data are the least durable coupled with a subpar processor (compared to high end consoles) - so if the damage is bad enough that the paper cannot remove them in that short time - it is too deep to start with. Also - I have found to have a much higher success rate after sanding by saturating the yellow coarse pad with white solution and longer running times. Have never used the buffing pad and white solution together as I have found it to be self defeating.(time question)Ahhh yes - the bonus of our machines not being like the new ones - we can leave the machine on the entire time and we take the discs off and on while it is turning - therefore we do not have to wipe the discs - ever. Remove the tightening nut altogether and slide each arm off and on manually while it is turning; hold appropriate pressure depending on the level of fixing needed. That will also help eliminate those edge scratches you speak of. My employees would mutiny if we had to do it the other way - have not had to use a wipe pad in 5 years. Plus we use wipies (yes the diaper wipies from Costco) to do all of our cleaning and solution removal - it works awesome.Added April 2010:> I read your review on amazon.com. I purchases one of these but I'm not fully sure how you are using it to get the fast results and not wipe any of the disc. Could you explain to me the full process you are doing? I'm confused how you keep the machine always running.The timer broke a long time ago so we use a plug strip to manually turn it off (the ON button works fine). We used to keep the timer set to the max time while it still worked. So while the pad is spinning you remove the disc and voila - nothing is left behind. Now yes there are a variety of techniques to disallow goop being left behind and to assure proper cleaning - but that takes lots of writing. Each polish takes less then 20 seconds anyway so with the two arms we can cycle quite a few discs in that time before it shuts down itself.> Do you use different pads on the disc or just one?I have two machines - one with a coarse pad full time and the other with a polish pad. The arms are interchangeable between machines so we go right from one machine to the other since we do hundreds per day. If you have one machine - then yes we switch pads but in order to have the velcro last longer we do piles at a time before switching to the polish pad from coarse (so they sit for a little while and dry on the disc but that is ok).> If you could outline how you fix them and what creams or solutions you use I would really appreciate it.Hit some of the process prior - we use the white solution on the coarse pad and the green solution on the polish pads. We use the ketchup dispensers instead of those lotion-sized opening containers from JFJ as to allow dispensing the fluid while it is spinning. We never cross over the fluids but the residue from the coarsing helps on the polish pad in creating just the right amount of grit in finishing the polish.The hardest part would be learning how to safely place the arms/blades onto the spinning pads and taking them off just right as to disallow ever using those dry cloths. The wet diaper wipies from any outlet work outstanding at cleaning off residue from the none play side and cases - plus they help greatly in removing the center goop off the tightening nut and disc while it still on the blade.EDIT: Added from question asked June 2011:>when i clean the discs it leaves a ring around the edge am i not buffing them right maybe you can help thanksAnswer: To be honest - it has taken numerous hours of repetitive learning curves and TONS of wipes from Costco. Several ways to get the residue off:1. While the machine is spinning the disc use a wet wipe to rub the outside edge; that helps remove the excess on the very outside edge of the disc and sometimes - depending on how confident you are - it also gets the crud between the disc and the plate. Either way you then have to take the disc off the plate, tighten the screw onto the bare plate and spin it on the pad very quickly to remove the residue.2. Put the disc back on that plate after using a clean wipe to remove the residue on the disc label side and the disc's inner circle/edge, then re-polish the disc again and everything is spotless.3. Also - the machines leave residue on the inner 25% of the data field if you use the frontal arm. Use the back arm (we always do all of this without any wingnuts/thumbscrews as they are useless and dangerous) and press with moderate pressure to remove the residue that the front arm leaves (even with any amount of pressure).Steve
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